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| Himalaya Five Peaks Technical Climbing
Course |
Where better to do a technical mountaineering course than in the mountains of the Himalaya?
The course is similar to a New Zealand TMC (Technical
Mountaineering Course), with trekking and the ascent of three major
peaks thrown in! The value for money when compared with alpine instruction courses around the world is fantastic.
Technical mountaineering courses allow participants to learn rock, snow and ice climbing as well as crevasse rescue,
navigation and rope work. The course is aimed at those with previous basic mountaineering and/or trekking experience, but we'll
hold a mountaineering skills seminar for less experienced participants
during the early stages. Most members will
be involved in placing snow and rock anchors and belaying other
team members.
Our climbing objectives on this expedition are Island
Peak (Imja Tse) (6189m) and its neighbours Mehra (5820m) and Lobuje East (6100m) in the famous
Khumbu Valley. We also visit Everest base camp and visit Gokyo Lakes and
Ama Dablam base camp, as well as climbing Dingboche Ri and Kala Pattar!
These outstanding mountains offer challenging,
but attainable climbing objectives and are an ideal combination for first
time expeditioners.
There is the optional extension to attempt the 6856m high Ama Dablam.
The expedition is led by an
experienced mountain guide, and local climbing Sherpas. Our tried and trusted
Nepalese staff are there to ensure that the camping trek and climbing stages
of your trip are a wonderful, fun and safe experience.
The itinerary
Day 1 Arrive in Kathmandu
Days 2-3 Rock climbing in the Kathmandu valley, technical tuition. Sightseeing
and cultural tour around Kathmandu
Day 4 Fly to Lukla
Day 5-11 Trekking up to the Khumbu and Gokyo Valleys
Day 12-28 Trekking and climbing
Day 29 Fly to Kathmandu
- Arriving in Kathmandu
One of the team meets you at Kathmandu airport and takes you to your
hotel. After you settle into your room your trip leaders bring you up
to date with the detailed plans and check over your equipment for the trip.
- Kathmandu, trip preparation
We spend a couple of days practising rope and rock climbing skills
in the Kathmandu Valley, organising permits and sightseeing around Kathmandu.
The ancient city of Kathmandu is home to many Buddhist and Hindu temples.
There are plenty of chaotic streets, markets and restaurants to wander
about in.
- Trekking in the Khumbu Valley
Like most visitors to the Everest region, we take the easy option
(and save ourselves a long bus trip and a week-long walk) by flying to Lukla.
We take several days to make our way up the valley, leaving plenty of
time for our bodies to acclimatise and to enjoy the fantastic experience
of the Nepalese countryside. Taking our own camping gear and staff
means that we have a measure of independence and need not be restricted to
staying in the larger villages.
- Trekking in the Gokyo Valley
We head up into the stunning Gokyo Valley where the track clings
to the western wall and the valley walls are so steep that steps are needed
to surmount sections. Until quite recently the Gokyo Valley was visited
only by yak herders in the summer months, but demand from the trekking industry
has seen the expansion of a number of small villages, some of which are simply
delightful. You will be amazed at the bowling green-smoothness of the walled
yak pastures among this rugged terrain. We take our time heading
up the valley as acclimatisation in these early stages of the trip is vitally
important. The Gokyo Lakes and Gokyo Ri, toward the head of the valley, are
stunning.
- Crossing back to the Khumbu
We cross the enormously long Gokyo Valley near Dragnag and approach
Cho La, the high route into the Khumbu. The glacier is quite flat
and relatively crevasse free; depending on conditions we may not even
need our crampons! From Dzongla on the eastern side we head down and around
to near the village of Lobuje to make our first real base camp. We spend
a few days on our rope skills and rock climbing on the lower parts of Lobuje
and make a day trip to Kala Pattar, and Everest base camp.
- Peak number one: Lobuje East
After all this preparation we will be acclimatised and ready for Lobuje
East itself. From a high camp, which is usually on rock, the ascent of stunning
Lobuje East (6119m) requires cramponing on moderate snow with quite serious
exposure to the valley below. As a consequence, we have the opportunity
to test our rope techniques on the way to a spectacular view of Everest,
Lhotse, Nuptse, Pomori and innumerable white fangs.
- Peak number two: Mehra
Our Kongma La camp also makes a great base camp for a scramble up Mehra
(5820m). The climb to the summit of Mehra is relatively straight forward
and provides fantastic views of the valleys all around and particularly
back to Lobuje East and its neighbours. From there we trek east, to Chukung
and on to Island Peak.
- Peak number three: Island Peak
Island Peak (Imja Tse) may be climbed by a number of different routes.
We intend to carry out a 'Grand Traverse', ascending The Cook's Ridge, traversing
the summit ridge and descending the standard route. The summit icecap is
cut with crevasses and there is some steep ground, so we will make use of
our recently polished glacial travel, cramponing and rope skills. This is
a truly spectacular peak, surrounded by enormous mountains, and the technical
nature of our course means that we can explore some of its less travelled
slopes.
- Finish in Kathmandu
You will have time in Kathmandu to see the sights and buy gifts before heading
home with amazing tales of your mountaineering exploits among the Sherpas
and yaks and the grandeur of the Himalayas. It will not be your last trip
to Nepal, everyone comes back to relive the magic of the place.
Is this trip suitable for you?
This course is aimed at introducing people to Himalayan climbing.
It is an advantage to have done some overnight camping trips
before but it is not required. A strong spirit of adventure and
a willingness to stretch your boundaries and have a go is an
essential requirement. Some experience of rock climbing beforehand
would be a distinct advantage and many people have been bush
walking prior to coming on these trips. Some participants may
be looking for a transference of skills from rock to snow, or
alpine-scale climbing to Himalayan climbing. The principal
aim for the trip is for people to develop skills to use in their
own climbing.
Those with rockcliming or good mountaineering experience may
wish to extend their expedition by a few days to climb the most
spectacular peak in the Khumbu: the 6856m high Ama Dablam.
This trip requires a high level of fitness and
a few additional items that the normal trekking kit will not contain. Any
trip to altitude can be potentially dangerous so every medical and technical
precaution is taken to safeguard your safety and success. Comprehensive medical
equipment, such as oxygen, Gammov bag and specialised drugs will be on hand.
Ropes and other technical safety equipment are also provided: we do not skimp
on kit. Safety of the entire group (including kitchen and climbing staff
and porters) comes first.
You will need to be able to walk for 6-8 hours a day with a moderate
day pack. The trekking days are not hugely long as your body needs
time to acclimatise. You are on holiday after all, so there is time
to stop for a long lunch and read a book or take some photographs.
The route follows a valley floor for the most part, with the terrain
uneven but generally not steep, although certainly hilly. We have
people and animals to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and
climbing gear.
Summit days and approach days require an extra special effort,
but by then you should be quite strong from your pre-trip training
and all the trekking during the previous weeks. A couple of big
days of up to 10-18 hours are needed as we set off early in
the morning for the summit.
In brief
Five peaks instruction course
Duration: October - Novevember, 29 days ex-Kathmandu (38 days with Ama Dablam climb)
Price: US$3500 (US$5500 with Ama Dablam climb) (subject to change)
Level: instructional |
Included in price
All airport transfers in Nepal, all accommodation in Nepal, breakfast
in Kathmandu, sightseeing tour in Kathmandu, trekking permits, peak fees
and National Park entry, porters, Sherpas and guides, all meals on
trek and climb, local staff insurance. Group climbing gear such as
ropes, snow stakes, protection. Group equipment such as stoves, tents,
mats, kitchen gear, medical kit, medical oxygen, Gammov bag, satellite
phone. |
Excluded in price
International airfares, visas, transfer fees, departure taxes, excess
baggage, tips to trek staff, hotels etc., personal travel insurance,
lunch and dinner in KTM, personal expenses such as gifts, phone calls,
laundry and alcohol, personal equipment. |
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